A well-built wooden fence can last twenty years without intervention. A poorly built one starts moving in its second season.
Surprisingly, the difference is rarely the timber itself. It comes down to two decisions made before the first post goes into the ground. This guide explains, directly and clearly, which post to buy, how to install it and why some last for decades while others fail.
First: what does “Use Class 4 pressure treated” mean?
You will see this description on product specifications, so it is important to know what you are buying.
Pressure treatment is an industrial process in which timber is placed in a sealed vessel, the air is removed under vacuum and preservative is injected under pressure. The mineral salts do not remain only on the surface: they penetrate deep into the piece. This is why the inside of a pressure-treated post remains protected when it is cut.
The Use Class indicates the environment for which the timber is prepared:
- Use Class 3: outdoors without ground contact. Balcony fencing, pergolas and cladding.
- Use Class 4: outdoors in direct contact with the ground. Posts, stakes, fencing and buried structures.
A fence post needs Use Class 4. No exceptions. It is the only class designed for timber that will remain buried, where exposure conditions are most severe.
The three types of post we supply—and which one suits you
Round treated pine posts: the most versatile option
Swedish redwood, planed, calibrated and pressure treated to Use Class 4 with a green-tinted finish. It is our bestseller and the industry standard for agricultural, livestock and residential fencing.
We stock different diameters and lengths, so you can choose the exact size without paying extra for an oversized post.
Pointed or unpointed: the pointed version is designed to be driven directly into soft ground without excavation, saving a great deal of time on long fence lines.
Square pine posts: for visible structures
A planed, calibrated square section. Its straight geometry works best when the post is part of the design: pergolas, porches, contemporary fencing and structures where boards must be screwed in perfectly vertical alignment.
Treated eucalyptus poles: strength and value
Debarked and treated to hazard class 3. Eucalyptus has notable density and mechanical strength and is competitively priced when large quantities are required. It is a sensible choice for fencing an entire property.
The mistake that shortens a post’s life—and how to avoid it
Here is something few people explain: a wooden post does not usually rot at the bottom or the top. It rots at ground level.
The reason is simple. Decay fungi need moisture and oxygen at the same time. Thirty centimetres below ground there is moisture but little oxygen. One metre above ground there is oxygen, but the timber dries quickly. In the ten-centimetre band around ground level, both conditions are present throughout the year.
This leads to two very practical conclusions:
First, Use Class 4 treatment is precisely what protects this area. That is why the category exists and why an untreated post may last three years while a treated one lasts twenty.
Second, if you use concrete, finish it correctly. A concrete footing shaped like a bowl around the post traps rainwater in the critical area. Finish the concrete with an outward slope, like a small cone, so water drains away from the timber. Two minutes with a trowel can make a difference for two decades.
Step-by-step installation
- Set out the line and stretch a string between both ends of the fence. Align every post to the string. If you work by eye, small errors accumulate and become obvious at the end of the run.
- Calculate the spacing. A distance of 2 to 2.5 m is standard for board or mesh fencing. Reduce it to 2 m in exposed, windy areas or for tensioned mesh.
- Bury one third of the post. A 240 cm post should sit around 80 cm below ground. This proportion gives the structure sufficient resistance to lateral loads.
- Reinforce corner and end posts. They carry the tension of the whole fence. Install them deeper, use a larger diameter and add a brace for long runs.
- Add gravel to the bottom of the hole. Ten centimetres of gravel beneath the post creates drainage and prevents the end from sitting in standing water.
- Concrete or compact the backfill. Use concrete for maximum rigidity—finished with an outward slope—or compact soil in layers if you may need to remove the posts later.
- Allow 24–48 hours to cure before attaching mesh or boards. Tensioning a fence against fresh concrete is the quickest way to leave every post leaning.
Complete your fence
A complete fence usually requires more than posts. Kamik Space can supply the whole project in one order:
- Add privacy with a framed pine trellis, ideal as a screening panel and support for climbing plants.
- Enclose land and define boundaries with galvanised barbed wire.
- Define garden areas and build steps with timber sleepers.
- Extend the life of the timber with a water-based insecticidal and fungicidal wood preservative, especially on cuts made during installation. Cutting exposes untreated wood, so always seal it.
Why buy your fence posts from Kamik Space?
- Use Class 4 pressure treatment, the correct treatment for ground contact.
- Several diameters and lengths, so the post can be matched to your site.
- Pallet quantities for large fencing projects, with volume pricing.
- Delivery in 48–72 hours directly from our warehouse throughout Europe.
- The personal service of a Valencian family business that answers the phone and provides genuine advice.
Start your fencing project today
Whether you are fencing an entire plot or need only six posts for a pergola, we have the timber, accessories and advice to help you get it right first time.
Not sure which diameter or length your site requires? Email us at info@kamikspace.com or contact us on WhatsApp and we will calculate it for you with no obligation. A good fence should only need to be installed once.
Natalia · Kamik Space
